Los quelites son un tesoro culinario poco valorado y que muchas veces se considera comida de “pobres” a pesar de su versatilidad y fácil acceso.
Escrito por: Gourmet de México
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El pápalo, los quintoniles, la verdolagas, las guías de calabaza, los germinados de frijol, los huazontles, la hoja santa, los chepiles y el epazote, son solo algunos de los quelites que tenemos en México, cuyo consumo está estigmatizado como “comida de gente pobre”.
Por: Araceli Calva
Los quelites, cuya palabra viene del vocablo náhuatl quilitl (hierba tierna comestible), aparecen en las 60 culturas que hay en nuestro país, y cada una le ha dado su propio nombre.
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El término quelite se aplica a todas las flores, hojas, bulbos y brotes de árboles tiernos (Linares y Aguirre 1992), pero son poco valoradas y menospreciadas en la actualidad a pesar de su gran riqueza nutrimental, su fácil acceso y su bajo costo.
Infografía: Alicia O. Cariño
En el marco del Tercer Encuentro de Cocineras Tradicionales de Oaxaca, la investigadora Edelmira Linares, Impartió la conferencia “Quelites en México, diversidad y usos”, donde señaló que “tenemos muchos tesoros culinarios (en México), que menospreciamos”.
Edelmira destacó la documentación de 500 quelites diferentes en México. Sin embargo y desafortunadamente, este grupo alimentario está asociado a la comida de los campesinos y gente de escasos recursos.
También ve: México, el país de los 64 chiles
Apuntó que en la actualidad muchos creen que los germinados de frijol son un invento estadounidense, cuando estos quelites aparecen en el código florentino de Fray Bernardino de Sahagún, quien se dedicó a documentar las plantas, los animalesy las formas de ser de los pueblos. E incluso existe un capítulo dedicado a estas hierbas en donde se mencionan todas su virtudes.
“Hablando de quelites en este contexto del códice florentino, tenían un estatus muy importante, había fiestas especiales a principios del año en la que se comían tamales de este ingrediente”, destacó la investigadora.
Pero ahora, indicó, son subestimados, incluso por los campesinos, pues hay algunos que niegan su consumo.
“Vamos al campo y nos dicen que no comen quelites, porque les da pena, entonces es bien importante reconocer su importancia cultural, económica, nutricional para estar muy orgullosos de continuar comiendo estas hierbas que tienen un gran aporte nutricional”.
También ve: Especies de maíz mexicano en peligro de extinción
La experta destacó que para impulsar el consumo de los quelites, elaboró el recetario “Quelites: sabores y saberes del sureste del Estado de México”, que se puede descargar en línea.
Por último comentó que “al consumir la diversidad de quelites conservamos la agrobiodiversidad de nuestro país y diversificamos nuestra dieta con distintos olores, texturas, sabores y micronutrientes, como vitaminas y minerales, esenciales en nuestra dieta”.
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